HDR Methods

[jjeling]

I was looking around on the forum at the threads. Been on here much more than usual. Hope you guys dont mind. haha. I was looking at the graveyard thread and didnt want to really take it over. As we all seem to have a certain attraction to graveyards, I was there not long ago. There was a scene I wanted to capture and HDR seemed to be the only way to capture it. The PS version on my computer does not support HDR(my newer computer is dead, that supported HDR).

I have these shots saved for the future for my efforts. It doesnt seem to be happening anytime soon so I thought I would let you try, and explain with what, and maybe any particular method.

It seems pointless, but has anyone tried converting HDR to black and white? I havent really looked into it but it seems it might lead to something interesting. Maybe that defeats purpose of HDR. Anyone on this one?

[Mad Aussie]

It seems pointless, but has anyone tried converting HDR to black and white? I havent really looked into it but it seems it might lead to something interesting. Maybe that defeats purpose of HDR.

Not pointless at all. In fact, on the right photo, it works very, very well.

I think Casil used this technique awhile back on a few of her sky/architecture shots/

[casil403]

Not pointless at all. In fact, on the right photo, it works very, very well.

I think Casil used this technique awhile back on a few of her sky/architecture shots/

I often use HDR as BW shots...I don't think it defeats the purpose at all. I often think it adds another dimension/depth/drama to BW shots. Especially with moody scenes like graveyards and junkyards or even architecture.
A couple HDR BW examples:

[Marko]

Thanks for those examples casil - they rock!

[casil403]

you're welcome Marko.

[jjeling]

Those are pretty cool. I have thought about that for a while now, just havent seen the thought applied. Thanks for the examples.

[casil403]

I took a stab at it...I hope that was what you meant...if not then my apologies.
I HDR's the shots in Photomatrix and then ran it through Lightroom and a Silver Effex preset (architecture with a red filter) with High structure to bring out the detail in the trees. I adjusted the light and shadow a smidge and this is the result:

[ericmark]

The way Photoshop seems to mess up colours black and white would have some advantages. However I always start with RAW images and with all the info the camera can provide and to work with reduced quality Jpeg it not going to give best used some curve and selective changing of exposure with Tiff image in RAW. However the software only shows a 6.5 EV range and really that does not need HDR maybe because from Jpeg?

I am only just starting myself but I have found opening up the mid range image in RAW often one can do nearly the same compacting of lights and darks without the colour distortion that Photoshop HDR seems to introduce.

Picturenaut seems better and free as far as colour goes and quicker. That was also a surprise your images were processed very quick in comparison to mine and reported to have been taken with different camera so I had to guess speeds for software to work. Maybe the meta file information is stripped out by web site?

Will watch to see comments.

[jjeling]

Ive only messed around with HDR on a couple occasions. It is not something I really seem to have an ambition for but would like to learn how to do this a little better. These two examples are pretty much what I envisioned, except for the grey snow. Is there any way to reduce that or get rid of it or is that just a product of HDR. It seems like snow would have to turn grey in some areas due to the different exposure levels.

Also, is there an ideal step in exposures for HDR? Is it 3 steps, 5, 10? I really have no idea what the exposure was for these, but I know I started really under exposed, then took progressive photos til they were extremely over exposed. Is this the correct initial process?

[Mad Aussie]

The stops you use for the 3 or more exposures really depends on your evaluation of the dynamic range in the scene. For instance, if the scene doesn't appear to have a huge range I use 1 stop bracketing. If I think there's a big difference then I'll take it out to 2 stops. If I still think it needs more I take a couple more using manual mode.

The grey 'patching' in the snow or the strange blue patches in sky etc are indeed HDR Merge artifact. Almost every HDR Merge photo will have some of this present in some way.
Too much blue in shadow is another artifact from the HDR Merge process.

The fix for this is in post processing the HDR Merge result. Taking the HDR Merge photo into Photoshop etc allows you to use various methods to correct this. Dodging and burning, cloning etc might do for instance. Often I will layer one of my original bracketed shots under the HDR Merge layer and blend through bits I need to look more natural or correct these issues.