Photo Editing On The Cheap by Glenn Euloth

I love photography and as much as I try to get the image right in camera when I press the shutter release there are just some times when you need adjust some overexposed bits or possibly do some custom editing to create a miniature look or selective colouring. Whatever the reason might be there will be times when you need to edit your images. A full out copy of Photoshop is more than $500. Even Photoshop Elements clocks in at $100 or so which is not super expensive but still, if I have an extra $100 I’m putting it towards a new lens or maybe that new tripod that I need.

In my last blog for Photography.ca I wrote about Picasa. Picasa does a wonderful job of basic photo editing, however, it just doesn’t cut it for anything really detailed. When I need more detailed editing capabilities I use Gimp. Gimp is a wonderful piece of software available for free use for Windows and Mac users as well as the original Unix platform. A companion product called ufRAW, also free, allows Gimp to open and edit RAW image files and since I shoot almost exclusively in RAW format it was a necessary add-on.

Gimp will do a lot more than I am capable of doing and I have still used it to do some amazing things. Like Photoshop it allows you to edit images using multiple layers, has many different filters and scripts that can change the look of your images (or parts of it) and also provides many different tools to work on your images. In this blog post I’ll edit an image and provide some screen shots to give you an idea of the capabilities of this wonderful piece of software, however, to really learn how to use it visit the tutorials page on the Gimp site.

In order to give you the broadest tour possible I will take an original image where I’ve done a fair bit of work on the image and walk you through the editing steps that I took to get it the way I wanted. Some of you out there may be much better at photo editing and so you will undoubtedly see areas where I am doing something wrong. Please feel free to comment below so I can learn more about how to do this stuff properly.

Let’s start with this photograph of a butterfly. Here’s the JPEG version created by exporting from Picasa with default settings. All things considered it’s not a horrible shot of the butterfly but the composition is kind of blah and the butterfly’s camouflage makes it difficult to see. Let’s open it in Gimp to see what we can do with this boring image.

Butterfly on Tree

First up, since it’s a RAW and I have ufRAW installed it automatically opens in ufRAW for me.  Here I can make adjustments to the RAW image before jumping into the Gimp editor proper.  For this image I’m going to make a few adjustments here so I end up in Gimp with the basics already completed.  This is the general process for me.

  1. From Picasa I right click and select Open in Gimp.
  2. It automatically opens in ufRAW because it’s a RAW image.
  3. I’ve clipped a few highlights 0.1% and so I adjust the black levels a touch to eliminate those.
  4. I then adjust the curves to boost the overall exposure to where I like the image.
  5. Using the crop/rotate/size adjust tab I select a pleasing crop which puts the butterfly on an intersection of thirds and gives him space to “fly into”.  Note the grid lines allow me to do this easily.
  6. Clicking OK transfers the image into Gimp for further editing where I adjust the colour levels and pump up the saturation on this one to give that butterfly a little more life.
  7. Next, I’m going to do some selective colouring to really make him stand out.  So, I’ll duplicate the layer so I now have two butterflies.
  8. Change the top layer to B&W and create a layer mask that I paint through to expose the butterfly.
  9. I switched to the colour layer and added a touch of unsharp mask to sharpen up the image.
  10. Last, to finish it off, I add a couple of borders, first white, then black and save as a JPEG.


6a 

6b  6c 

8a 

8b  8c 

9a  9b 

10a  10b

That’s it!  Here’s the result:

Butterfly Edited

Living in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Glenn Euloth enjoys travelling on the photographic journey.  Visit www.euloth.com to join him on the trip or find him on our photography forum under the nickname of Iguanasan.

95 – Larry King family portrait – Interview with Laszlo of Montreal

Photography podcast #95 features an interview with Canadian photographer Laszlo of Montreal. In this interview Laszlo talks about a recent portrait session with Larry King and his family. In an effort to illustrate how keeping it simple can yield great results, Laszlo deconstructs this photograph while talking about lighting, composition and technique.

Larry King family portrait by Laszlo of Montreal

Larry King family © Laszlo of Montreal

Links /resources mentioned in this podcast:

Show us your parks is the regular assignment this month on our photography forum
Macro – closeup  is the level 2 assignment this month on our photography forum
If you liked this podcast and want to write a testimonial, it’s a great way to say “Thanks” and it’s super-appreciated

If you liked this podcast and want to review it on Itunes, this link gets you to the main page

If you are interested in writing for our blog please contact me photography.ca (   A   T  ) G m ail  Dot co m (using standard email formatting)

Please join the Photography.ca fan page on Facebook

My Facebook profile – Feel free to “friend” me – please just mention Photography.ca
My Twitter page – I will follow you if you follow me – Let’s connect – PLEASE email me and tell me who you are in case I don’t reciprocate because I think you are a spammer.

If you are still lurking on our forum,
feel free to join our friendly :)  Photography forum

Thanks to forum member Glenn Euloth (AKA Iguanasan on our forum) who posted a blog comment about our last podcast. Thanks as always to everyone that sent comments by email about our last podcast. Although ALL comments are appreciated, commenting directly in this blog is preferred. Thanks as well to all the new members of the bulletin board. Most of the links to actual the products are affiliate links that help support this site. Thanks in advance if you purchase through those links.

If you are looking at this material on any other site except Photography.ca – Please hop on over to the Photography.ca blog and podcast and get this and other photography info directly from the source. |Subscribe with iTunes |Subscribe via RSS feed |Subscribe with Google Reader|Subscribe for free to the Photography podcast – Photography.ca and get all the posts/podcasts by Email
You can download this photography podcast directly by clicking the preceding link or listen to it almost immediately with the embedded player below.

Thanks for listening and keep on shooting!

Graven Images – Ideas for Cemetery Photography by Kristen Smith

Strange as it may seem to some, I find cemeteries peaceful places and I enjoy spending time in them.  I also enjoy photographing them.  I’m mostly fascinated by the overall aesthetic of a cemetery, how the stones are placed, the ways they’ve shifted and changed over time, the carvings and motifs through the decades, decorative arrangements like walls and gates; it all fascinates me and I do my best to capture the essence of a graveyard whenever I shoot one.

Haunting the Obscure by Kristen Smith

Haunting the Obscure by Kristen Smith

There are some general guidelines you should follow when shooting burial grounds.  The first thing to remember is to be respectful.  These places represent lives and history and often sorrow.  If there are mourners or visitors present, give them space.  Don’t crash a ceremony.

Also don’t touch or move anything with respect to the graves themselves.  If one is damaged or fallen over, leave it.  Sometimes branches or other debris fall on monuments and I always leave those as well, unless it is photographically in the way.  I also avoid climbing over anything I don’t have to like walls or gates. And I never remove anything from a gravesite and I can’t imagine doing so.

Angle of Repose by Kristen Smith

Angle of Repose by Kristen Smith

My main interest is in old cemeteries.  Luckily in New England we have the oldest European cemeteries in the country and I’m never short of subjects.  Whatever your particular interest is, find ways to accentuate what you find interesting.  It might be particularly moving epitaphs, or artwork and common decorative motifs or maybe just finding stones of people with your name.  Personally I like to show the overall structure and character of a cemetery as well as highlight some of the oldest or most interesting headstones.  Decaying stones are always terrific subjects; lichen, cracks, weathering and even outright destruction can make for really interesting images.

Harriet Obscured by Kristen Smith

Harriet Obscured by Kristen Smith

I will admit that after years of shooting in cemeteries it does get tougher to come up with original compositions.  Sometimes approaching a grave yard in a different season helps, like winter.  Sometimes it means getting there at a certain time of day so that carvings are brought up strongly with shadows. Sometimes it means finding unusual perspectives and including other things like walls and gates in my compositions.  Frequently I use different post-processing techniques to bring out what I want in a photo.  This doesn’t always mean black and white or sepia, but I do use them since they especially suit the older burial grounds I haunt.

Keeping Watch by Kristen Smith

Keeping Watch by Kristen Smith

So don’t be afraid to step into that cemetery near your house.  Explore it respectfully, photograph it creatively and walk away with a sense of history.

Kristen Smith is a New England photographer whose cemetery work can be found in her Graven Images Gallery

94 – Turning day into night

Photography podcast #94 teaches how to turn day into night or late afternoon for portrait purposes. This technique is often used by wedding, fashion and portrait photographers. The goal of the technique is to make the sky look darker so that the model pops against the sky. This often adds mood and/or drama to a shot. We discuss 2 techniques; using flash and camera in manual non TTL (Through the lens) mode as well as TTL mode. We also touch on flash sync speeds.

This image looks like it was shot in the late afternoon but it was shot at 1pm. Camera mode was aperture priority using TTL flash. Exposure compensation was set to -3 on camera and +2 for the direct on camera flash. I would have taken the flash off camera for a better lighting pattern but it was minus 15 C and my model only had 5 minutes in her.

Links /resources mentioned in this podcast:

Show us your parks is the regular assignment this month on our photography forum
Macro – closeup  is the level 2 assignment this month on our photography forum
If you are interested in writing for our blog please contact me photography.ca (   A   T  ) G m ail  Dot co m (using standard email formatting)

Please join the Photography.ca fan page on Facebook

If you liked this podcast and want to review it on Itunes, this link gets you to the main page

My Facebook profile – Feel free to “friend” me – please just mention Photography.ca
My Twitter page – I will follow you if you follow me – Let’s connect – PLEASE email me and tell me who you are in case I don’t reciprocate because I think you are a spammer.

If you are still lurking on our forum,
feel free to join our friendly :)  Photography forum

Thanks to kat, Wicked Dark and Shant M who posted a blog comment about our last podcast. Thanks as always to everyone that sent comments by email about our last podcast. Although ALL comments are appreciated, commenting directly in this blog is preferred. Thanks as well to all the new members of the bulletin board. Most of the links to actual the products are affiliate links that help support this site. Thanks in advance if you purchase through those links.

If you are looking at this material on any other site except Photography.ca – Please hop on over to the Photography.ca blog and podcast and get this and other photography info directly from the source. |Subscribe with iTunes |Subscribe via RSS feed |Subscribe with Google Reader|Subscribe for free to the Photography podcast – Photography.ca and get all the posts/podcasts by Email
You can download this photography podcast directly by clicking the preceding link or listen to it almost immediately with the embedded player below.

Thanks for listening and keep on shooting!

Managing Photos with Picasa by Glenn Euloth

I am a geek and I have been a geek for a long time. ‚So, when I first started managing my digital images I never thought I could trust a piece of software to look after the files on my computer. ‚I would use Windows Explorer to copy the files off of my camera and into a folder on my hard drive. ‚If I wanted to edit an image I would make a copy first and then edit the copy. ‚It worked great but it was very time consuming.

I tried the Kodak software that came with my first point and shoot but it was very slow and clunky and didn‚„t come with a decent image editor so I gave up on it and went back to copying files in Windows.

Google bought Picasa from Idealab in 2004, branded it, and started giving it away as a free download. ‚The Google fan-boy that I am I decided to give it a try and it was instant software love. ‚I don‚„t know how much of it was Idealab and how much of it was Google but I found Picasa to be a wonderful piece of software that did everything I needed in a slick, easy to use package.

First up was image import. ‚I no longer had to launch two explorer windows, create a folder and copy the files from my SD card to the new folder. ‚Instead, inserting the SD card into my laptop automatically launches a window that asks me if I want to import the files into Picasa. ‚All I have to do is click OK. ‚Picasa looks after the copy process and deletes all the images off the SD card after confirming the copy so I‚„m ready to go shooting again.

Next is the easy editing tools. ‚Once the image is in Picasa I can quickly navigate to an image and perform a number of easy edits.

Picasa software - Click to enlarge

  1. Red-eye removal
  2. Saturation and sharpening
  3. Convert to black and white or sepia
  4. Crop to any dimension or aspect ratio
  5. Facial recognition
  6. Straighten the image
  7. Tag and Geotag
  8. And much, much more…

Not only do the edit tools work easily and quickly but Picasa automatically creates a backup copy of the image and performs the edits on the copy so if you make a mistake or if you want a copy of the original you can always find it or revert back.

I ran into a bit of problem organizing my images initially as I was not using Picasa so I had created a 2009 folder and in it I created January, February, March, etc. ‚After I started using Picasa I had a very simple way to upload images to PicasaWeb for sharing with just a click of a button, however, it used the folder name as the album name on PicasaWeb. ‚This became a problem when I started uploading ‚”January‚ images from 2010 as they got put in the same album on PicasaWeb.

To solve this problem I developed the following strategy: ‚At the beginning of the month I create a folder in Picasa with the format YYYY-MM (Monthname), so for example I have 2011-01 (January), 2011-02 (February), etc. ‚This allows me to store and manage the images by date without worrying about duplicates and when I want my holiday photos I can easily search for ‚”December‚.

If you are not sure how to manage your photos or if the software you are using is awkward and not working well for you then I highly recommend you‚download and install it. ‚At the very least you should check out the‚video. ‚Come back next month and I‚„ll talk about advanced image editing without having to spend a lot of money on expensive software.

Living in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Glenn Euloth enjoys travelling on the photographic journey. ‚Visit‚www.euloth.com to join him on the trip or find him on our photography forum under the nickname of Iguanasan.

Three Basic Rules of Close-Up Photography by Kristen Smith

So you want to get close, huh? ‚Close-up photography is magical and can be done with almost any lens, even your normal zoom lens (all of these shots were taken with the Zuiko Digital 12-60mm zoom, not a macro lens). ‚Sure, serious macro photography requires specialized equipment, but you can get good results right away using what you have if you remember a few guidelines.

First ‚œ get close! ‚So many times I see ‚Ëœclose-up‚„ pictures that include way too much in the frame. ‚Like a flower image that shows other flowers, leaves, a fence, the dirt etc. ‚That‚„s not a close-up. ‚The reason good close-up and macro photos are so magical is that they show us a world we might not ordinarily notice. ‚Here‚„s what to do, find out how close your lens will focus and then try and stick to that as much as possible. ‚My ZD 12-60mm lets me get a couple inches from my subject and does a good enough job that I can sometimes leave my macro lens at home.


Ice Crystals by Kristen Smith

Second ‚œ isolate! ‚Close-up photographs are much more effective when the subject is clearly separated from the rest of the scene. ‚You can do this in two ways, first by choosing a subject that doesn‚„t have anything near enough to be in the frame with it. ‚So pick that flower or mushroom that doesn‚„t have any friends. The second way you can isolate your subject is by opening your lens to a large aperture. ‚Doing this limits your depth of field and creates an out of focus background also known as bokeh. ‚Of course sharp focus on your main subject is critical, so be careful. ‚Watch the shutter speeds and use a tripod if necessary.

Chicory Blossom by Kristen Smith

Third ‚œ surprise! ‚Show me something different. ‚Oh gee, another flower picture. ‚Yay. ‚How about a bug? ‚Yawn. ‚A leaf? ‚Zzzzz. ‚Sorry, I‚„m not really dumping on any of these things, but haven‚„t we all seen a million of them? ‚I‚„m just as guilty of it. ‚After a while they‚„re all the same and it takes an effort to bring something different to the world of close-up photography. ‚Find it. ‚Whatever it takes, find something unusual about an everyday object or something you hardly ever see photographed. ‚Try new angles, perspectives, juxtapositions, play with depth of field, background, color combinations; anything to help your image break free of sameness.

Broken Cork by Kristen Smith

So that should get you started. ‚Get close, isolate and surprise me! ‚Feel free to post comments with links to your best close-up photos or share them on the‚forum.

My Website = www.wickeddarkphotography.com and I’m based in New Hampshire, USA

Photographing Architectural Abstracts by Lisa Couldwell

Living in the downtown core of a large city with some interesting glass towers makes for great opportunities to shoot urban architectural abstracts. The beauty of this type of photography is that sometimes uncooperative weather or light can make for some great opportunities to catch building reflections. So any day I feel the need to get out for a walk, I take my camera and head downtown to see what the towers will offer up for opportunities.

I guess the most important aspect of shooting these types of subjects is the ability to look up, vertical, sideways, basically any way that gives one a different perspective. When shooting, look for interesting shapes and reflections off the glass windows of the towers. This can be anything from the reflections of the other parts of the buildings themselves, to reflections of the sky or clouds, sunlight or other buildings in the area.

Energy Plaza - Calgary, Alberta by Lisa Couldwell

Energy Plaza - Calgary, Alberta by Lisa Couldwell

If you see something that catches your eye, try turning your head, body in a way that might perhaps give you a different perspective and if you see something, get the camera ready. I usually set my Pentax into auto-bracket mode because I like to have the option of an HDR shot to play around with when I get home. Put the camera to the eye and again turn the camera, sideways, on an angle or basically any way that intensifies the abstractness of what you see through the lens. Take your time and don’t be afraid to take several versions of the shot while moving the camera and your body into different angles as you never know what may work and what may not. When composing the image in camera, I often compose lines to move on the diagonal as this moves the eye through the photo and creates a pleasing perspective. I look for symmetrical and geometric shapes when I move and photograph. I will go across the street and try from a different street corner as well. The beauty of this kind of photography is anything goes and you never know what you may end up with just by moving either a few centimeters or several feet. (Just as an FYI, sometimes you may get hassled from security people but in Canada as long as you are on a public sidewalk and not on private property you have the right to continue to photograph.)

In this image, I really was attracted to the V shaped angle of the building, vanishing perspective, symmetry, and the reflections of the other windows and the clouds. I pointed the camera straight up and tried to angle it so it was perfectly symmetrical. I then autobracketed 3 shots at exposures of +.5/0/-.5 stops, combined them into an HDR image in Photomatix, converted to BW in Silver Efex and minor touch ups in Lightroom to really bring out the cloud detail.

Lisa Couldwell is a photographer living in Calgary Alberta, Canada. You can check out more of her work in the Pentax Gallery, on fluidr,‚and on Smugmug. She also goes by the handle casil403 on our photography forum.

93 – Black and white photography – qualities that make good bw images

Photography podcast #93 is based on a thread in our photography forum by member asnow where he asks about the qualities make a good black and white photo. A number of other forum members help answer the question and I offer up some personal opinions as well. One‚piece‚of good advice involves learning to see in black and white using a digital camera. Most digital cameras can capture the image in colour but SHOW it to you on your camera’s screen in black and white. This allows you to learn how coloured tones under a given light look in black and white. (Look up the word monochrome in your camera’s instruction manual for instructions on how to do this). Live view is also fantastic as it shows you how the scene will look in BW even before you click the shutter. (Many thanks to asnow, raven4ns, Wicked Dark and Andrew for their contributions to the thread and podcast.)

Snow Tracks - Marko Kulik

Snow Tracks - Marko Kulik

Links /resources mentioned in this podcast:

The Zone System – Wikipedia | The Zone system on Luminious landscape
Wicked Dark’s article Black and White 101

Emotion is the regular assignment this month on our photography forum

Backlighting is the level 2 assignment this month on our photography forum
If you are interested in writing for our blog please contact me photography.ca ( ‚ A ‚ T ‚) G m ail ‚Dot co m (using standard email formatting)

Please join the Photography.ca fan page on Facebook

If you liked this podcast and want to review it on Itunes, this link gets you to the main page

My Facebook profile – Feel free to “friend” me – please just mention Photography.ca
My Twitter page – I will follow you if you follow me – Let’s connect – PLEASE email me and tell me who you are in case I don’t reciprocate because I think you are a spammer.

If you are still lurking on our forum,
feel free to join our friendly :)Photography forum

Thanks to kawarthabob, and kat‚who posted a blog comment about our last podcast. Thanks as always to everyone that sent comments by email about our last podcast. Although ALL comments are appreciated, commenting directly in this blog is preferred. Thanks as well to all the new members of the bulletin board. Most of the links to actual the products are affiliate links that help support this site. Thanks in advance if you purchase through those links.

If you are looking at this material on any other site except Photography.ca – Please hop on over to the‚Photography.ca blog and podcast and get this and other photography info directly from the source. |Subscribe with iTunes |Subscribe via RSS feed |Subscribe with Google Reader |Subscribe for free to the Photography podcast – Photography.ca and get all the posts/podcasts by Email
You can download this photography podcast directly by clicking the preceding link or listen to it almost immediately with the embedded player below.

Thanks for listening and keep on shooting!

92 – My damn lenses keep vignetting – solving vignetting problems

Photography podcast #92 talks about solving vignetting which is the unwanted darkening around the edges or corners in your photographs. We talk about 2-3 very common reasons why even professional lenses that cost a fortune, STILL suffer from vignetting in certain cases. ‚We also talk about why many people never notice the vignetting in their photographs even though it’s often there.

Mechanical or filter vignetting

This is mechanical vignetting of a shot of the sky on my F2.8 24mm wide angle lens and is due to too many filters in front of the lens. Shot at left at F2.8. Stopping down to F 5.6 (right shot) ‚helps slightly. A better solution here is to simply use less filters, or wider ones.

Optical vignetting

Optical vignetting on neutral subject. Shot at left is at F-5.6 focused on infinity using the 300mm end of my 28-300 zoom. Shot at right is at F-11 focused on infinity using the 300mm end of my 28-300 zoom‚and the vignetting is almost gone. Both images shot without filters of any kind. This type of vignetting can occur in some cases on almost any DSLR lens regardless of price.‚Listening‚to the podcast explains why this happens.

Links /resources mentioned in this podcast:

Cambridge in Colour article on lenses
Wider Cokin Z filter holders at B&H
Step up rings at B&H
Adapter rings at B&H
Emotion is the regular assignment this month on our photography forum
Backlighting is the level 2 assignment this month on our photography forum

Please join the Photography.ca fan page on Facebook

If you liked this podcast and want to review it on Itunes, this link gets you to the main page

My Facebook profile – Feel free to “friend” me – please just mention Photography.ca
My Twitter page – I will follow you if you follow me – Let’s connect – PLEASE email me and tell me who you are in case I don’t reciprocate because I think you are a spammer.

If you are still lurking on our forum,
feel free to join our friendly :)Photography forum

Thanks to Jack Label and Sevenwords‚who posted a blog comment about our last podcast. Thanks as always to everyone that sent comments by email about our last podcast. Although ALL comments are appreciated, commenting directly in this blog is preferred. Thanks as well to all the new members of the bulletin board. Most of the links to actual the products are affiliate links that help support this site. Thanks in advance if you purchase through those links.

If you are looking at this material on any other site except Photography.ca – Please hop on over to the‚Photography.ca blog and podcast and get this and other photography info directly from the source. |Subscribe with iTunes |Subscribe via RSS feed |Subscribe with Google Reader |Subscribe for free to the Photography podcast – Photography.ca and get all the posts/podcasts by Email
You can download this photography podcast directly by clicking the preceding link or listen to it almost immediately with the embedded player below.

Happy New Year everyone and only the best for 2011 – thanks for listening and keep on shooting!

91 – 3 ways to reduce noise in photography

Photography podcast #91 discusses 3 common‚reasons‚we get noise in our photographs and we offer tips on how to beat that noise. For the purposes of this podcast, noise is the appearance of coloured‚specks, ‚monochromatic‚specks or bands/lines that appear in your photographs (often in uniform areas like the sky or in the shadowy parts of the image) that should not be there.

Scene from Oka Parc Quebec Canada

Scene from Oka Park Quebec Canada

This image from OKA Park looks pleasing enough and looking at it here you might not know that the image was underexposed. I boosted the levels in Photoshop so at first glance it looks pretty good.

HOWEVER, this 100% crop from the same image reveals the noise (colours in the snow) due to underexposure.

Snow detail crop at 100% shows colour noise

Snow detail crop at 100% shows colour noise

TIP – Don’t automatically underexpose. Underexpose the scene only when necessary.

Links /resources mentioned in this podcast:

Cambridge in Colour article on noise
Noise Ninja
Dfine
Topaz Denoise

Shiny‚is the regular assignment this month on our photography forum
Ton sur Ton is the level 2 assignment this month on our photography forum

Please join the Photography.ca fan page on Facebook

If you liked this podcast and want to review it on Itunes, this link gets you to the main page

My Facebook profile – Feel free to “friend” me – please just mention Photography.ca
My Twitter page – I will follow you if you follow me – Let’s connect – PLEASE email me and tell me who you are in case I don’t reciprocate because I think you are a spammer.

If you are still lurking on our forum,
feel free to join our friendly :) Photography forum

Thanks to rabs, Lee Sacrey, Las Vegas Weddings, Charles binns landscape photography, and Michael Van der Tol who posted a blog comment about our last podcast. Thanks as always to everyone that sent comments by email about our last podcast. Although ALL comments are appreciated, commenting directly in this blog is preferred. Thanks as well to all the new members of the bulletin board. Most of the links to actual the products are affiliate links that help support this site. Thanks in advance if you purchase through those links.

If you are looking at this material on any other site except Photography.ca – Please hop on over to the‚Photography.ca blog and podcast and get this and other photography info directly from the source. |Subscribe with iTunes |Subscribe via RSS feed |Subscribe with Google Reader |Subscribe for free to the Photography podcast – Photography.ca and get all the posts/podcasts by Email
You can download this photography podcast directly by clicking the preceding link or listen to it almost immediately with the embedded player below.

Happy Holidays everyone and only the best for 2011 – thanks for listening and keep on shooting!

Photo of the day (most days)

As many of you know I spend far too much time in front of the computer.‚ Being the admin on Photography.ca and Pets.ca is a great job and even though I do take pictures regularly, I often go many days without shooting and this just has to change.

Three weeks ago I went on a photo tour in the Rockies with Darwin Wiggett who has been interviewed on our podcast a few times already. Man, that Darwin Wiggett is inspirational and I came back on a photo high. Darwin has been shooting an image a day for well over a year I believe, and he calls it his daily snap. Here is Darwin’s daily snap for today December 3rd 2010.

Although I am envious of Darwin’s passion and commitment, I know myself pretty well. I’ll try hard to post images that are shot by me and others, or post vintage photography that I dig. I’ll even write a few lines about what intrigues me about the images. I should be able to do this several times a week each week – but not every single day. Anyway, effective immediately and thanks again Darwin for your additional inspiration, I’ll start posting photos of the day as often as I can.

Here’s an image I shot just yesterday a few meters from my home. The day was very overcast and windy and puddles reflecting the city were everywhere. The wind caused ripples in the water and gave it a painterly feel which caught my eye immediately. Because the scene already had very little colour I thought it best to convert it to BW using Silver efex pro. Although the shot does feel a bit ‘dark’ to my eye, it did represent the mood of the day and the changing seasons. Please feel free to critique or comment on any aspect of this image.

Puddle Reflection by Marko Kulik

Puddle Reflection by Marko Kulik

90 – Tilt shift lenses for landscape photography – Interview w/ Darwin Wiggett

Photography podcast #90 features an interview with Canadian landscape photographer Darwin Wiggett. It was recorded on a photo tour in the Alberta Rockies led by Darwin. In the interview Darwin discusses why he often uses a tilt shift lens in landscape photography. For those that have never heard of a tilt shift lens, it’s a lens that has the ability to tilt and/or shift while attached to your camera. The tilting aspect of the lens allows you to get amazing depth of field (REGARDLESS‚ of aperture) because the lens can tilt in the same direction as the plane of focus. The shift aspect of the lens allows you to correct non parallel lines in camera when photographing a building for example. It also allows for easy panoramas. Darwin is a fabulous teacher so take a listen and it will all make even more sense. We also talk a bit about testing your lenses, resolution, aperture, depth of field and image circles.

An example of a tilt shift lens

Note how the image on the right has SUPERB depth of field because the tilt shift lens was TILTED into the plane of focus. Image at left uses a regular wide angle lens.

Note how the image on the right has SUPERB depth of field because the tilt shift lens was TILTED into the plane of focus. Image at left uses a regular wide angle lens. ‚©D. Wiggett

Note how the lighthouse is straight in the shot at right due to the shift correction on a tilt shift lens

Note how the lighthouse is straight in the shot at right due to the SHIFT correction on a tilt shift lens. Image at left uses a regular wide angle lens. ‚© D. Wiggett

Links /resources mentioned in this podcast:
Workshops and photo tours with Darwin Wiggett
Jay Maisel Documentary for inspiration
Show us where you live is the regular assignment this month on our photography forum
Time (No clocks) is the level 2 assignment this month on our photography forum
Nikon’s 24mm tilt shift lens at B&H
Canon’s 24mm tilt shift lens at B&H

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