Basic photography tips

I met with long­time friend Mitch Joel this week and gave him a few basic pho­tog­ra­phy tips. It was such a plea­sure to finally share some of my knowl­edge with him. He’s been shar­ing his knowl­edge about‚digital marketing‚and the World Wide Web with me for YEARS. Although I share my knowl­edge freely with many peo­ple, with Mitch it’s been all take. Feels good to give (just a wee bit in comparison)‚back. By the way Mitch Joel has an AMAZING pod­cast and blog on dig­i­tal mar­ket­ing and I highly rec­om­mend it. He has a huge fan base and absolutely has the skinny on social media and dig­i­tal marketing.

Below are a few very basic pho­tog­ra­phy tips. Oth­ers may well be just start­ing off in pho­tog­ra­phy and these really brief and basic pho­tog­ra­phy tips‚might be‚helpful.

Expo­sure
——–
All cam­eras deter­mine expo­sure (the com­bi­na­tion of shut­ter speed and Aper­ture (size of the hole) ) by aver­ag­ing out the light in the scene. If it’s a scene with aver­age tones as most scenes are, the expo­sure should be cor­rect. If there is a pre­dom­i­nance of EITHER dark or light tones, the cam­era meter will prob­a­bly fail and the pho­tog­ra­pher must OVERRIDE the camera’s set­tings. The clas­sic exam­ple is the dude in front of the sun­set. The cam­era sees all that bright sky and cuts the expo­sure to aver­age out the scene and leaves the main sub­ject in near com­plete dark­ness. On the oppo­site end, a black‚car against a black wall — this will fool the cam­era as well, because the cam­era will try to aver­age out that scene and make the black‚car and black wall lighter. Rather than teach how to cor­rect for this (which is sim­ply to man­u­ally increase or decrease expo­sure) just be aware that scenes that have either too much dark or too much light in them are harder to deal with.

Com­po­si­tion
———–
Most peo­ple tak­ing a pic­ture of per­son will always place them in the dead cen­ter of the image. Take 1 shot, sure. Then place them off cen­ter and see how much more inter­est­ing the shot can become. This sce­nario works with every­thing. Art/photo his­to­ri­ans sug­gest that if you look at the scene through the viewfinder and divide it like a tic tac toe board, the most inter­est­ing place to place the main sub­ject is on the 4 CORNERS (top right, top left, cen­ter right, cen­ter left) of the cen­ter square BUT NOT IN THE CENTER OF THE CENTER SQUARE.

Red eye
——-
Red eye sucks and is some­times hard to get rid of with point and shoot cam­eras. WHENEVER pos­si­ble, mean­ing when there is a choice) don’t use flash. So if there is good ( good is dif­fused indi­rect and softer — bad is harsh direct shards of light) win­dow light, shut off the flash and use it.

Back­ground
———-
This one is sim­ple and makes a huge dif­fer­ence. Be aware of what is going on in the back­ground. Is it dirty, is there a coat-rack right behind the subject’s head? Move either your sub­ject, or you your­self move (when you can) to elim­i­nate dis­tract­ing backgrounds.

Hand hold­ing the cam­era
———————-
Most humans CAN NOT hand hold the cam­era at shut­ter speeds slower than 1/60th of a sec­ond (i.e. 1/30, 1/15 the of a sec­ond etc.) If you try to take a pic­ture and the result is blurry, it can eas­ily be a shut­ter speed issue.

Auto focus
———
Many point and shoot cam­eras have poor auto focus. The cam­era can’t know exactly what ele­ment in the scene you want to focus on. In this case, over­ride the cam­era and choose man­ual focus. If you are shoot­ing a por­trait, try to ALWAYS focus on the eyes.

Depth of field
————–
A huge topic but you should know some­thing about it. In a lens you can change the size of the hole or aper­ture to suit your needs. When the hole is large (mea­sured in F-stops F2.0, F 2.8, F4 etc) there is less sharp focus from fore­ground to back­ground. Great for por­traits where the main sub­ject stays sharp and the back­ground goes into soft focus.

When the hole is small (F16, F22, F32)‚ there is MORE sharp­ness from fore­ground to back­ground. Great for‚ land­scapes. The key is always to play. Take shots at dif­fer­ent set­tings and compare.

Heroes and Volunteers

I’ve had a pho­tog­ra­phy project in mind now for many years. I want to pho­to­graph peo­ple that make a dif­fer­ence in this world through their acts of kind­ness. It could be in ANY field whatsoever.‚The project would be called some­thing like Heroes and Vol­un­teers. I already have a few peo­ple in mind but I’d like to get ideas from oth­ers. Who do you know that really makes a dif­fer­ence, that really helps out, that really deserves some recognition?

Although I’m located in Mon­treal, so that would be eas­i­est, I do get out of Mon­treal once in a while so please send their names (and how they help)‚my way anyhow.

You can com­ment below or send the infor­ma­tion to photography.ca(a t )gmail(d o t)com
Thanks in advance! — Marko

Podcamp Toronto — Kudos to Karma



In an effort to become a bet­ter pod­caster and to make friends with the pod­cast­ing com­mu­nity, I attended Pod­Camp Toronto 2007 this week­end at the Rogers Com­mu­ni­ca­tion Cen­tre at Ryer­son Uni­ver­sity.

What a blast. What an amaz­ing‚com­mu­nity!

The shar­ing that went on was so unbe­liev­able that at any point dur­ing the weekend‚somebody could have eas­ily busted out a gui­tar and started singing Kum­baya! One of the biggest things we learned is that giv­ing, giv­ing giv­ing is the key to build­ing the strongest pod­cast­ing com­mu­nity pos­si­ble. When every­body gives — every­body receives.‚And give peo­ple did. Here are just some of the peo­ple that helped me this week­end. I apol­o­gize in advance if I left any­body out.‚ Mitch Joel — always an amaz­ing moti­va­tor, Julien Smith‚- great social net­work­ing speaker, Chris Penn — who I now refer to as ‘The Sage’, Mark Ble­vis, Bob Goyetche, Bryan Per­son, Jay Moohah, Hugh McGuire, Casey McK­in­non and Rudy Jahchan, Chris Bro­gan, Mike Moon, Vergel Evans, Brent Mor­ris, Michael Baily,‚Mark Juliano, Steve Say­lor, Peter O’Connell, Donna Papa­costa, Leesa Barnes, Jeff Per­sch‚and oth­ers that I will add in because I may have inad­ver­tently for­got­ten them.

Although I am rel­a­tively new to pod­cast­ing, I’d like to carry on‚the spirit‚of giv­ing. So this is an open invi­ta­tion to share the knowl­edge that I have. I know a bit about pod­cast­ing and I know a lot about pho­tog­ra­phy and a lot about pets. If any­one has any ques­tions about these sub­jects, it would be my plea­sure to help you if I can. Feel free to email me at‚photography.ca (a t) gmail (dot) com for any pho­tog­ra­phy ques­tions or pod­cast­ing ques­tions. Feel free to email me at pets.ca (a t) gmail (dot) com for any pet related ques­tions. If I can help — I will, and I’ll try to answer quickly as well. If I can’t help you, I can prob­a­bly refer you to some­one who can.

Valentine’s day pet photography

Pets.ca is another web­site that I help run and lately on the bul­letin board we have monthly pet pho­tog­ra­phy chal­lenges. This month’s chal­lenge is Pet Valen­tines and here is one of the 3 pho­tographs that I entered. The point is that there are soooo many pet lovers out there…and almost every­one has a cam­era so why not take some fun por­traits of your pets?

I’ll be doing a pho­tog­ra­phy pod­cast on pet pho­tog­ra­phy in the near future so stay tuned for some tips! For this pho­to­graph I used win­dow light on an over­cast day and used bounced fill flash to fill in Ziglet’s (my boy cat’s) fur.

pet photography

Valentine’s day pet photography

Pets.ca is another web­site that I help run and lately on the bul­letin board we have monthly pet pho­tog­ra­phy chal­lenges. This month’s chal­lenge is Pet Valen­tines and here is one of the 3 pho­tographs that‚I entered. The point is that there are soooo many pet lovers out there…and almost every­one has a cam­era so why not take some fun por­traits of your pets?

I’ll be doing a pho­tog­ra­phy pod­cast on pet pho­tog­ra­phy in the near future so stay tuned for some tips! For this pho­to­graph I used win­dow light on an over­cast day and used bounced fill flash to fill in Ziglet’s (my boy cat’s)‚fur.

pet photography

Painting with light — blog post teaser

Paint­ing with light is a really cool tech­nique for pro­duc­ing fine art pho­tographs. I am work­ing on a few right now and will post my results as a blog post or a pod­cast and posts some­time this week. For those that don’t know‚ — In order to expose a pho­to­graph you need light. Usu­ally that light comes from the sun, flash etc. When you paint with light you pho­to­graph in TOTAL or almost total dark­ness, then with a flash­light (torch) flash, or other light source you light the object while your cam­era sits on a tri­pod and the shut­ter stays open (on bulb) for the whole exposure.

This was just the teaser. So far the results are super cool — and I will post them with a fuller expla­na­tion this week (hope­fully). Hang tight. 2007 will be a year of experimentation.

So many amazing photographers

I’ve recently come into con­tact with a few AMAZING fine art pho­tog­ra­phers. They have great sto­ries and great pho­tographs. A cou­ple of them have even agreed to do inter­views with me for future pod­casts and you’ll be see­ing their work and lis­ten­ing to them shortly. Stay tuned!

Shooting through glass — results

Here are the results from my exper­i­men­ta­tion with shoot­ing through glass. Basi­cally I went to a glass store and asked to buy scrap pieces of bro­ken glass. I was espe­cially look­ing for glass that had a bit of tex­ture in it. I looked through the glass with my eye and chose pieces that had just a bit of pat­tern and/or tex­ture. I bought about‚6 pieces of scrap glass for around 5 dol­lars. The pieces of glass that I bought were a bit too small in ret­ro­spect. I’d rec­om­mend the min­i­mum size to be 6 x‚8 inches (15.2 X 20.4 cm)

To shoot I put the cam­era on a tri­pod and placed dif­fer­ent pieces of glass between the lens and the fake flow­ers. Seems to me that the best shots were those where I placed the glass closer to the flow­ers than closer to the lens. I man­u­ally held the‚glass dur­ing the expo­sure, and I did this with­out using a cable release (which would have been handy). On some shots I focused on the flow­ers through the glass, and on other shots I just focused on the glass. The effects are quite painterly and I encour­age exper­i­men­ta­tion. Here are the results.

normal shot
Nor­mal shot

shooting through glass 1
Through tex­tured glass

shooting through glass 2
Through tex­tured glass

Photographing through glass
Through tex­tured glass

photographing through glass
Shot through amber glass with texture


Pieces of the actual glass that were used

Camera and grey card exposure example

This is a good exam­ple of the expo­sure we talked about in pod­cast #6. In the first image, I took a shot of the scene using only the camera’s meter and no adjust­ments. As we dis­cussed in the pod­cast the job of all cam­era meters is to aver­age out the scene. Since so much light was com­ing in via the win­dow, the cam­era ‘said’ hey I need to reduce expo­sure. There­fore the cat has almost no detail, but the cur­tains look great.

In shot two I based my expo­sure on the grey card by approach­ing it, fill­ing the cam­era frame with it, plug­ging the read­ing into the cam­era and tak­ing the shot with that read­ing. Notice how the cur­tains have almost no detail now. This is a much bet­ter expo­sure if the goal of the shot‚in to show a cat in the light by the win­dow. The expo­sure should have also been very sim­i­lar had we used an inci­dent meter read­ing based on the cat.

As a final note both these shots illus­trate another point from the pod­cast which is that if the con­trast (the dif­fer­ence between the bright­est and dark­est ele­ments) of the scene is too great, the cam­era will NOT be able to record both ends properly.

Shooting through glass

This has been some­thing that I’ve been mean­ing to do for a while. Now that I have that new dig­i­tal cam­era, I’m all over it. Great‚effects for fine art photography‚can be had by shoot­ing through dif­fer­ent types of glass and mate­ri­als with dif­fer­ent lev­els of translu­cency. Have I piqued your inter­est? Results will be posted here within 1 week.

Photography projects — length of time

How long should pho­tog­ra­phy projects last? Is there a time limit? Should‚there be a set amount of time? Can it span years, can it span a life­time? Hmmmmmm.

I took this shot this past sum­mer and it is part of‚a project that never seems to end.
Does it even matter?

Focus on the eyes

Today’s small tip to bet­ter your pho­tog­ra­phy is a sim­ple yet cru­cial one and the title of this post really explains it all. Por­traits are the most com­mon type of pho­to­graph that peo­ple take. Peo­ple con­tstantly ask me to eval­u­ate their pho­tos that they think are amaz­ing. 50% of the time when there is a per­son in the pho­to­graph their eyes are not sharp. This DESTROYS the shot. When tak­ing a por­trait, focus on the eyes. Don’t focus on their nose or their hair, focus on their eyes. If their head is turned toward the cam­era, focus on the eye that is clos­est to the camera.

That said, I’m sure to get “but Marko what if I want to try some­thing funky and keep the sub­ject blurry to get an effect”. In that case you can do what­ever you want to do, because that is your inten­tion. You gotta know the rules before you can break the rules.